Bahawalpur: The Old City of Nawabs

Reading Time: 4 minutes Bahawalpur is a well-known city in Pakistan but do enough locals know its history? There is no doubt that it is famous for many things like its palaces, pottery, silk, artisans, and more, but is that the extent of its impact on the country? The majority of Pakistanis do not know about the majesty of the old Bahawalpur State or the part it played in helping Pakistan kickstart its independence in 1947.

Reading Time: 4 minutes

Bahawalpur is a well-known city in Pakistan but do enough locals know its history? There is no doubt that it is famous for many things like its palaces, pottery, silk, artisans, and more, but is that the extent of its impact on the country? The majority of Pakistanis do not know about the majesty of the old Bahawalpur State or the part it played in helping Pakistan kickstart its independence in 1947.

Of the early history of the region, Nadia Noreen of Bahawalpur Museum said, “Hakra was a large river that brought water from the Himalayas. This region was conquered by many tribes: Aryans in 1,500 BC and Jats, Rajputs, and Baloch tribes later on. They built many forts. In 1733, it was taken over by the Nawab of Shahotra tribe of Bahawalpur, Sadeq Mohammad Khan I.”

Nawabs’ Presence in the City

The State of Bahawalpur was ruled by the Abbasi family for more than 200 years and saw 12 nawabs in power. The city was founded in 1748 by Nawab Bahawal Khan I who gave the city its name. The region is home to architectural marvels like Noor Mahal, Darbar Mahal, Derawar Fort, Abbasi Jamia Masjid, and more; quite a few of the structures were built by the Abbasi family. The highly esteemed rulers of the state were entitled to 17 gun salute like the rulers of the other princely states of Jaipur and Bikaner.

As Noreen said, “This city is known as the city of palaces, the city of nawabs, and the city of lovers. Noor Mahal, Darbaar Mahal, Sadiqgarh Palace, and many more palaces were built by its various nawabs. The most famous among these is Noor Mahal. Anyone can fall in love with the palaces and their huge gardens. Noor Mahal is the hidden gem. It was built by the ruler of Bahawalpur for his queen, Noor. However, the queen refused to reside there as the view from her balcony was dominated by the graveyard. It then became the state guest house. All viceroys and commanders in chief during the Raj and prime ministers and presidents of Pakistan were received in this palace.”

The State was one of the more prosperous ones in India owing a great deal to its strategic location near the Sutlej river which was opened for traffic in 1833 as the result of a treaty. The city also became a safe haven for many prominent families of the surrounding areas that fled to Bahawalpur when Ranjeet Singh attacked Multan and laid siege to the fort as the Mughal Empire was collapsing. Noreen further described the status of Bahawalpur for refugees, “Eventually, the state became a refuge for many nobles, religious scholars and artists fleeing from the Sikhs and Marathas. Nawab Mohammad Bahawal Khan III signed a treaty of friendship with the British in 1833 that guaranteed the autonomy of Bahawalpur as a princely state,”

The nawabs of Bahawalpur took care of their people by forming and improving healthcare infrastructure (The Victoria Hospital), educational institutes, postal service, military structures, etc. The last ruling nawab, Sadiq Khan V, is credited with providing the locals with opportunities to get educated and grow. He established the central library of the city, and many schools, and colleges including Sadiq Public School and Quaid-i-Azam Medical College. Perhaps his most famous act was politically and financially supporting Pakistan when it gained independence.

Talking about the final resting place of the nawabs, Noreen said, “Next to the mosque, there’s is a large graveyard known as Shahi Qabaristan, where successive generations of the Nawabs have been laid to rest. There is one large sized rectangular room that contains the graves of all 12 Nawabs who ruled Bahawalpur state, including the last nawab, who merged the state into Pakistan.”

Sadiq V’s Hand in Bahawalpur’s Accession

When the British hinted to Sadiq Muhammad Khan about acceding to India, he replied, “I believe we are all gentlemen here. My front door faces Pakistan, my servants’ entrance faces India. I believe a gentleman usually enters his house through his front door.” It bears mentioning that his grandson, Salahuddin Abbasi, when talking about his grandfather’s decision to accede to Pakistan said, “We have been regretting it ever since.”

What is interesting is the somewhat contradictory message by Nawab Sadiq Muhammad Khan ten days after the Partition of 1947. He said, “The States have once again become fully independent and sovereign territories. These important and far-reaching changes enable us to shape our own destinies.”

The reason behind the delayed accession of the princely state of Bahawalpur was the Nawab’s efforts to gain as much independence and sovereignty for his state as possible. Due to his close personal friendship with Jinnah and his state’s location, he was more inclined towards Pakistan. He said, “In view of the geographical position of my State and its cultural and economic affinities with the Pakistan Dominion, my representatives should participate in the labours and deliberations of the Pakistan Constituent Assembly…which will enable the two states to arrive at a satisfactory constitutional arrangement with regard to certain important matters of common concern.”

In October of 1947, after Bahawalpur acceded to Pakistan, Nawab Sadiq Muhammad Khan was given a yearly privy purse (32 lakh in rupees) and was allowed to maintain the traditional protocol and his titles.

Nawabs in the Recent Times

The current Nawab of Bahawalpur is Nawab Salahuddin Ahmed Abbasi, the grandson of Nawab Sir Sadiq Muhammad Khan V Abbasi, the last ruling Nawab of the former princely state. He is not only highly respected in his region but also has considerable influence in the Pakistani political sphere. His son, Prince Muhammad Bahawal Abbas Khan Abbasi, joined the political party PTI in January 2022.

For around 40 years, Nawab Sir Sadiq Muhammad Khan Abbasi’s land of Shikaragah (377,974 acres) was under dispute between the 23 legal heirs of the late Nawab. In 2006, SAFRON (States and Frontier Region) Ministry solved the case by distributing the land between the late Nawab’s three wives, ten sons, ten daughters, and the common column.

Bahawalpur’s Dwindling Glory

Bahawalpur helped Pakistan stand on its two feet right after independence by financing the first month’s salary of all government officials, setting up Ameer of Bahawalpur Refugee Relief and Rehabilitation Fund to help settle the refugees, and much more. Despite that, the government of Pakistan allowed the once majestic city to fade into the background. The city fell into despair, the economy crumbled, and the age-old artifacts and heritage sites have been forgotten.

Seirut Javed

A being that lives a discombobulated life but thrives on food, movies, fiction, travel, knowledge and dreams. Tweets @Seirut

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Seirut Javed

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